Bill Anderson's 1932 Ford 5 Window Coupe
Reassembly Pictoral

    I really wanted to finish this car this year and be ready to run in 2006.  Considering my options, if I paint the car solo as originally planned, I know it will be at least one more year, if not more.  I'm also starting to realize that I picked a heck of a complex project to start with for my first paint job.  After much thought, I decided to get some help.   It came down to 2 choices.  1st) Take it to a professional custom painter and be subject to their ways and long term schedule - not unreasonable, but I want to move to paint now and paint it myself.  And, they really don't have the time to tutor me in the fine art of painting.  2nd) Find a local body shop that will shoot paint for me.  I made several calls, talked to a few, and went with Andy Sivwright that took on helping me get this coupe painted as a side job.  Andy's an easy going guy, and his free time lines up well with the rate at which I finish things and get with him for final prep, prime, and paint.
    First up were the chassis, wheels, and steering column.  I trailered them to his home shop where he preped them for paint.  When ready, I trailered them to his day work shop, they were painted in the best environment, baking at 185degF when finished.  Then, trailered once more back to my garage.   While he was prepping, I finished up the body, and trailered that to his house when he was done with the chassis.
    Below left is a picture of the post-paint wet sand and polish session back in my garage.  Below right, and continuing down are pictures of the reassembled chassis, ending with the engine and transmission installed.
Jul05ChassisPolished.jpg (25706 bytes) Aug05ChasDrv.jpg (21780 bytes)
Aug05ChasFront.jpg (37959 bytes) Aug05ChasFrt2Bck.jpg (39703 bytes)
Aug05ChasPasFront.jpg (44936 bytes) Aug05ChasDrvFront.jpg (42380 bytes)
Aug05ChasMid2Front.jpg (45852 bytes) Aug05ChasDrvBack.jpg (42785 bytes)
Aug05ChasRear.jpg (36112 bytes) Aug05EngTransIn.jpg (36826 bytes)
    Some issues, but of course:

1) I had filled the torque converter prior to placing on trans, and put additional fluid in the trans.  Bolting engine and trans together, I drop the combo onto the chassis.  The transmission is dripping from the torque converter, it's gotta be from the front seal.  I stare & stare & measure & measure, and the way the chassis is constructed it looks like there's no way to pull the trans without pulling it with the engine due to the close spread on the trans mount ears on the cross tubing, and the cross tubing on top of the tail shaft of the trans.  Look at the picture above and below and you'll see what I mean.  I quickly yank the engine/trans combo, detatch the trans, and take the entire assembly back to Atomic Transmission.  Now, they understood that I was building this coupe and had never run the trans, and owner Frank Gentile made a full pass checkout replacing all the seals for $50.  Reinstall motor/trans and crank motor over adding fluid per Frank's instruction.  I don't see any fluid dripping from torque converter.   Looks like we got that one.  But, it seems to be dripping from the front of the pan so I snug up the gasket, which didn't help, so I pull the pan and Permatex the pan side of the gasket.  Helps a lot, but still some drip.

2) I decide to fire the assembly up in the chassis.  I hang the radiator & install the hoses.   I hooked up the battery running power to the starter and fuel pump, connected the starter to the alternator, hung the 0.8ohm ignition resistor off the top alternator bracket, and drew power from the 12V side of the resistor for the fan, electric choke, and water temp gauge.  Here's what happened:
    1) Quick set of the dwell and timing, and the engine sounds great.
    2) We're leaking from the front and back of the trans.
    3) Leaking antifreeze from a couple of spots, plugs & fittings I had not run in real tight during assembly 2 years ago. Torque down.
    4) Leaking antifreeze from overflow tank input, the push on hose wasn't enough, so I install a spring clamp which is tight.  Darn
        thing still has a slow drip.  Add Permatex to seal it.
    5) It just seems to run so hot, I'm concerned that I won't be able to cool the car with the one fan I've got.  I decide to pull the
        thermostat and swap out the 195deg (factory) with a 160deg.  Bingo, car runs at about 175deg in the garage in 85deg temp. 
        She'll do fine in traffic now.

3) Get the driveshaft made.  Well, it seems because I have a drilled tailshaft in the trans which requires a bolt in yoke, I have to have either my yoke relief cut or get a new one that already has a relief cut in it.  Bottom line, Suburban Driveshaft sold me a new yoke, and built the shaft to take up to 700HP.  I install it and the wheels go round & round!

4) Back to the trans merry-go-round: 
    A) After changing the tailshaft gasket and using some Permatex to make sure it won't leak, I reassemble & run, and it still leaks. 
    B) I spend a couple of sessions studing the problem and by constantly drying the trans with white shop rags I finally spot a crack
         in the case just in front of the tailshaft.   Frank at Atomic says bring it back, they'll swap the case at no charge. 
    C) After staring at the trans in the chassis, it appears that if I raise the front of the transmission 1-2", and then drop the tail between
          the ears, it should just clear.  So, I put the assembly a foot in the air on jack stands, and use my engine hoist & chain combo
          attached to the upper 2 bolt holes of the bellhousing to hold the front in the air while I lower the back with the floor jack. 
          She just barely squeezes out, wow. 
    D) I run the trans over to Atomic, they verify the crack, I've got a new housing & reassembly in 24 hours.
    E) I reinstall the trans, reversing the removal process, I'm getting good at this trans swap bit.  As I am installing the driveshaft,
        I notice something's funny.
    F) In park, the driveshaft isn't locked.  I proceed with the trans oil fill, cycling through the gears, thinking I don't want to perform
         another pull, drop off, pick up, and reinstall.   Thinking I hope this can be fixed with the trans in the car, I pull my Turbo 400
         book looking for parking lock info.  From what I find, it sure seems like it can be fixed in the car.  Figuring that if the trans gets
         pulled I have to drain the fluid anyway, I pull the pan after dinner to have a look.  In a few minutes I spot the problem; the pawl
         bracket is jambing against the pawl so it won't move.  Some simple pounding to fold the pawl bracket guide over a little more
         corrects the situation.  Pan back on, oil in, fire-up, check 'er out, we're in business!!!!

         While I don't like the extra work and rework (who would), I do feel that Frank & crew at Atomic Transmission were real good
about the whole deal.  While they easily could have told me that the trans work was 2 years and 10 months ago they worked with me in earnest, were very accomodating, and made good. And, I learned some things.

  OK, as you can see below, things are hooked up & running!!!
I had to take care of a few leaks, rig up some wires to make it work, but it's now:


(Aren't we all)

Opps, took the picture before re-install of the driveshaft.

Oct05ChassisRuns.jpg (88697 bytes)

Below are some shots from the booth, Saturday 10/15/05.  Wish I had taken one when I painted the bottom and the car was pitched up on the firewall nose.
Boot Body.jpg (31051 bytes) Booth - Body2.jpg (28872 bytes)
Booth - Body3.jpg (21859 bytes) Booth - Doors Body.jpg (25355 bytes)
Booth - Doors Body2.jpg (24446 bytes) Booth - Doors Body3.jpg (25596 bytes)
Booth - Doors Hood Deck.jpg (23664 bytes) Booth - Lights Hinges.jpg (18536 bytes)
Booth - Body Trailer.jpg (46852 bytes)
    And, below are some pictures after reassembly, with just installation of windows and interior work remaining.  When I have a chance to reshoot these, I will take some better pictures that show off the color.  I think all the white background causes the car to look darker than it really is.
Dec05FrontLeft.jpg (34680 bytes) Dec05Front.jpg (43265 bytes)

Dec05LeftFront.jpg (25029 bytes)

To the right, can you tell it's snowing outside????

Dec05LeftRear.jpg (31462 bytes)
Dec05Rear.jpg (32388 bytes)
    Well, just a few comments before we get to the next set of pictures regarding the windshield.  What would an issue be if it didn't continue.  If you remember, Downs jerked me around by sending me a tinted windshield when I asked for clear, charged me half price for a new one, repeated their mistake when I went to pick it up it was tinted again causing me to wind up paying for shipping.  Then, during initial fitting, even after having a friend grind the glass a couple of times, I wound up cracking it.  I had a local glass shop make one up per the 1/4" template I made, but they took the liberty of making it just a little too big.  Then, when I took it back, they kept it for 3 weeks and ground the top drivers corner too small.  I tried the next glass shop, that made it perfectly, and Al from my Harley group (who's job is replacing windshields) helped me get the windows in.  So in all, I had 5 windshields... that's just's truly a 5 window coupe!!!

   OK, I got pictures while at Competition Fabrications making the roll bar, but I neglected to get pictures at Schober's for the interior.

    Notice the trunk hump/bump modification.  Realizing late (but, better than later or never) that the Ford 9" housing was close to the bottom of the body, I decided to cut out a panel and raise it to accomodate axle travel.  I cut it out, split it into 3 pieces horizontally, and glassed it in with Tiger Hair.  Once the trunk floor is in it won't be visible, and I just won't put mirrors underneath there ;^)

    Also, notice the 12V ignition kill switch mounted to the inside of the oak board spanning the trunk.  I set it up so that while at the track a rod connected to it runs through the upper left license plate bolt.

Feb06Trunk.jpg (40460 bytes) Feb06BattDisconnect.jpg (32805 bytes)
Feb06RollBarDrv.jpg (35766 bytes) Feb06RollBarPass.jpg (37695 bytes)
    Below, notice the wiring taped to the floor so that it will be flat and in place once the interior is laid on top.
Feb06Wiring1.jpg (36280 bytes) Feb06Wiring2.jpg (36591 bytes)
Feb06Wiring3.jpg (40604 bytes)
    In February 2006, it was off to Schobers for the upholstery.  Below are pictures of the finished interior.  I stopped by a couple of time while he was doing the work.   I really wish I had taken a camera and pictures.
Nov06Drvrs2.jpg (44942 bytes) Nov06Drvrs3.jpg (39548 bytes)
Nov06Drvrs.jpg (55957 bytes) Nov06Pass.jpg (54392 bytes)
Nov06DrvrRear.jpg (29610 bytes) Nov06PassRear.jpg (34716 bytes)
Nov06Seat.jpg (31315 bytes) Nov06Trunk.jpg (36973 bytes)
    I think the interior came out great.  That coil cord running down the transmission tunnel is for the line lock.  I need to mount that to the shifter.

    Below is the final assembly.  Now, were off to test & tune.  Of course the car will smoke 'em from a stop, but they also come loose at at 20ish mph punch and snap loose when upshifting.  Not too shabby for a starting/tame motor.  

Nov06DrvSide.jpg (37977 bytes) Nov06PassSide.jpg (42585 bytes)
Nov06PassFrt.jpg (49808 bytes) Apr06 Rear.jpg (34390 bytes)
    It sure was a fun summer, shaking out the car and fixing an array of minor issues related to squaring things away.  Went to many a cruise night and had a blast.  At 3 shows the car did well: Cantigy Show won "Participant's Choice", Midwest Street Rod Association Gears & Ears won "Cool Rod Ride", and at Warrenville Days of Summer won a spot on the 2008 calendar.  I really didn't expect any of that, I just went for fun.

The plan is to build a 450HP engine over the 2006/2007 winter. 

    Stay tuned for pictures of the update and the dragstrip!!!