Bill Anderson's 1932 1969 Camaro BBFC
Funny Car Build Up Pictoral

   

When it came time to begin the project, I worked out a fantastic arrangement with Competition Fabrications owner Dave Daunheimer, to build the chassis for my funny car using his short jig in the shop. Part of the arrangement was that while I would do all of the fabrication and construction, to insure itegrity Dave would do all of the TIG welding to hold the chassis together.

So, on March 30, 2010, the full gammit of tubing to build the rolling chassis arrived at CF and thus I was committed, or should have been.

 

 

April 2, 2010, it all begins with a foundation, so I started by building the frame stand on the jig for mounting the lower frame rails into position.

 

May 7, 2010, a month of work, lower frame rails with cross supports in place and a couple of uprights holding the upper frame rails while Dave does some TIGing.

 

June 4, 2010, another month goes by, and the uprights are in position for holding the upper frame rails, the rear end and engine are in position.

 

July 3, 2010, another month, the rear k-frames are done along with the rear mounts welded in. A-arms are in place having been located by the A-arm frame mount.

 

July 9, 2010, Upper anti-rotation...

 

August 3, 2010, Lower anti-rotation and parachute tether mount.

August 24, 2010. Having made arrangements to get a Donnie Reeves 1969 Camaro, the call came from Donnie that the body was ready. He told me that I would need a platform to bring the body back and gave me the dimensions that would need to add to my flat bed trailer. Donnie met me in Nashville with the body to save me the extra 3 hours driving south.

 

November 6, 2010, the steering crossbar, column, and linkage to the drag link is done. Seat is done. Roll cage is done.

 

November 23, 2010, working on the side tin

 

Dec 12, 2010, Rick Cortino set me up with getting a full drive train from Don Gerardot: pump to reverser, hat to pan combo of 426 KB hemi with Crower clutch and Lenco 3 speed. So, move the upright forward and shorten the diagonal for the oil pump.

 

Dec 30, 2010, building the rear support assembly for the body. All done with the work that needs to be done on the chassis jig, so load the chassis up and take it home!!!

 

March 2011, place the body where I can layout the body mount pads underneath as shown in the following pictures:

 

I stopped by Anthony Bronge's shop and decided that as his body was mounted to essentially copy where his pads were mounted and his tree work. Here you see the layout for the left rear of the body.

 

I scuffed the area and used panel bond adhesive with 2 screws to hold the mounts in place. Once set, I'll remove the screws and fill the holes with panel bond adhesive.

And, with the pads all mounted, suspend the body back over the chassis to begin the tree work.

 

Level the chassis on the saw horses.

 

And, measure from chassis to wheel well to center the chassis under the body.

 

March 16, 2011, right front tree work progress. You see the tubing will weld to sleeve bolted to pad and intersections welded together. Notice also the adjustable saddle goes over the top frame rail cross bar.

 

A view of the left rear body tree work progress.

 

April 8, 2011, tree work done and car is on the ground, so...

 

Time to start the tin work. Start by making cardboard mock up of all the panels as they would be in the car.

 

October 8, 2011, it's been a looonnnggg busy summer making perfect tin and making the fiberglass lips on the body for it to mount to.

 

Also, the windshield is in and the dog house for the injector hat is mocked up and ready to fab and mount to the windshield.

 

December 2011. While there may be better ways to get your Zoomie kit together, and I'm sure there is, here's what I did.

Constantly throughout this process while you're fitting the tubes, make sure you are butted against the stops and have the sweep back you desire. You'll probably do this more than anything.

No, I won't do yours!! But if you have questions after reading this, I'm more than happy to explain in more detail.

 

Build yourself a platform for whatever height you choose off of the ground. My height is 3". Notice the 2x4's that extend off of the end and butt against the frame rail to locate the platform, and I have the left side of the left 2x4 locator at the center of the motor plate upright. This allows me to make sure as I go along that I detect a shift or bump of the platform. Notice the line across the platform, that's the edge of the body and where I want the low point of the bend in the tubes to follow. The blocks on the side I added while installing the first tube to position both lateral and back sweep.

 

In the center is the header flange, the top is a template of the head port, and the bottom is the wood template used to align the tubes to the head. The hole in the wood is 1/8" larger than the exhaust tube to allow for tip, tilt, and insertion.

 

All four tubes cut and fit against the head with virtually no gaps. You can't see the numbers, but the tubes are numbered so I don't forget who goes where and do who's work on what or else what will be messed up. I found in later steps that I didn't need to be so fussy, but better accurate than sorry. Also, during this step I accomplished other things. I made sure that the low point of the bend followed the body line, I made sure that the tube at the end was parallel so the strap would fit flat, and I made sure the stagger between the tubes was the same, mine are 1-5/8, you may have to trim tube ends to get the consistent stagger.

 

Make the outer pipes fit flush against the wood flange template. Notice the Sharpie line, this is the visual center of the tube for squaring it up to make a round tube follow a square hole.

I couldn't hold the outer pipes up while I snapped the picture, but the bottom follows a straight line. Notice the outer pipes are numbered also.

 

View of the line up from the front.

 

Square up your outer pipes before the inside for obvious reasons like not being able to slide the outer on once the inner is no longer round. This is where the visual center Sharpie mark is necessary.

 

Mount the flange, just like the wood hold it back from the head with spacers. Slide the outer on and line the tube up against the flange and make the center of tube mark. Also, because the tube is not perpendicular to the flange, I ground a taper into the flange to follow the angle of the tube. In the end, this will allow it to sit flat against the inside side.

 

Begin flattening the inner pipe to fit into the flange. Go just far enough to get the tube into the flange.

 

Inside tube through the flange and against the head. Notice the distortion, the tube end is no longer flat.

 

Try to center the tubes in the flange from right to left and tack weld into place on the flat portion that is against the flange. Tack weld a strip to the bottom to keep everything in place.

 

From bottom to top, three pictures showing the expanding of the round tube to fit the square hole. I'll leave you to your own devices to accomplish this!!! Notice in the top picture that some material is sticking out past the flange.

 

Push the tubes back into the flanges and re-tack the tubes to the flanges and the strip on the bottom. This was done on the platform, this picture show it after the platform was removed. TIG the inside tube to the inside of the flange, and the outer tube to the flange. This one's all done.

 

Up close view with the body down.

 

 

 

December 2011. While I was working on the zoomies, I was contacted and had the opportunity to get the car lettered and pinstriped at the 2012 Chicago World of Wheels by the Chicago Brushmasters as part of their Ronald McDonald House charity auction. I had planned on finishing up the build (basically cabling, mounts, hook ups, etc. at this point) but COULD NOT pass up a golden opportunity!! So, talk about a bums rush to get this project done. Starting with the date for the WoW's I developed a timeline that would have to be met to make the show. As I can't shoot paint in the garage during the Chicago winter, I once again got help from Andy Sivwright to get the project done. We turned my garage into a disaster and trailered the rolling chassis back and forth to the spray booth, but we made the schedule.

 

February 1, 2012, a full month of sanding and filling, to the spray booth for the first round of primer.

Cleaned, papered, and ready for primer...

 

... and out of the booth with primer coat number one...

 

 

 

Feb 8, 2012, sanding primer coat number one...

 

... and back in the garage to sand primer coat number two...

 

... sanding and creating a mess...

 

Feb 11, 2012, ... in the booth for paint!!!

 

White pearl laid down for strip, and tape laid for shooting Viper blue...

 

... and the Viper blue is shot...

 

... carefully peeled off masking over strip to shoot clear...

 

... clear is shot and car is back in garage for wet sanding...

 

Feb 16, 2012, wet sanding and buffing/polishing!!!

 

Garage cleaned out, and now the reassembly begins for the show!!!

 

March 2-4, 2012, big weekend at the Chicago World of Wheels for the Chicago Brushmasters Ronald McDonald House Charity Auction lettering, pinstriping, and air brushing the car. Enjoy the progression from delivery of the car to the show, the work and the discussions on what details would give the car pizzazz!!

 

 

 

March 24, 2012, there just wasn't time to finish the car at the WoW, so RJ, Jason, and Eddie came over to the house and finished up in the garage!!!